As mentioned during the lecture, it is quite insighful to play around with the linear wave equation using Dalrymple's applets. Try and produce a table and/or plot of how wave properties changes with water depth. Assume a wave height H of 1 m and a period T of 5 s, and compute for example the wave length L for different water depths h (40, 35, 30, 25, 20, 15, 10, 8, 6, 4 and 2 m). Wave length L decreases in shallower water, but wave period T stays the same. Therefore the wave speed C must decrease. This lies at the heart of causing the waves to shoal and refract.
I have also uploaded the answers to today's exercise and also the mock test for those who want to see what it looks like.
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